Drive down South First Street at 4 a.m. — when the typically busy portion of U.S. 285 is mostly deserted, save for the occasional semi truck or WIPP shipment — and you might spot a small food trailer, its lights on and side door open.

Inside, Rosa Guillermo, owner of Super Taco, and her staff are preparing for the breakfast rush. At most restaurants, that typically occurs anywhere between 8 and 9 a.m. But in Artesia, where scores of oil and gas industry workers will soon be streaming into the oil patch, it’s a different story, one whose main character is the humble breakfast burrito.

“Our rush is typically from 5:30 a.m. to 9:30 a.m.,” Guillermo said.

Super Taco, located at 702 S. First St., opens at 5 a.m., and often, there’s already a pickup truck or two waiting in the parking lot. Prep work includes cutting the meats and produce that will fill the burritos — “especially all the produce for our pico de gallo,” Guillermo said — cracking eggs, firing up the grills, and getting started on the carne asada and asado.

Across town, cooks at Fenn’s Country Market on the corner of 20th and Main streets and Alma’s at 1802 W. Main St. are also beating the sunrise to work. They’ll begin their preparations for the morning with plenty of chopping and egg-cracking …

… as well. All three eateries offer more than burritos, but it’s that most portable of breakfast items that appeals to hungry workers en route to an arduous day in often remote locations.

A breakfast burrito can be easily eaten on the long drive to the rig site, a hearty way to start the day. Foil-wrapped burritos can be packed into coolers and saved for lunch. Burritos are also a simple item to purchase in bulk for distribution to coworkers.

“Having a hot, fresh burrito in the morning is one of the best things around,” said Anthony Martinez, a lease operator with Coterra Energy. “Having it readily available in the morning makes it easy when you’re trying to get out of town. The burrito is a delicacy in itself but even more so early in the morning.”

Alma’s opens at 6 a.m., and by that time, they typically already have a large, preplaced burrito order waiting to be filled.

“Navajo is one of our biggest customers on burritos, and APSI as well,” said owner Alma Martinez. “Waitresses get there at 5:30 a.m. to get it all going.”

The most popular request of the day is generally the Bulldog Burrito. “That’s our famous one,” said waitress Massiel Miranda. “It comes with everything besides the kitchen sink, like it says on the menu. Eggs, hashbrowns, sausage, ham, bacon, green chile — if it’s a breakfast item, it can go in there.”

At Super Taco, the favorites include the Mexicana Burrito with carne asada and grilled pico.

“Most people will typically add beans and cheese at no additional cost,” Guillermo said. “Another very popular and common option is, of course, our asado, and most people will add beans and cheese, and some will add eggs.

“We also have our arriero burrito, and it includes our fried pork, green chile, cheese, homemade pinto beans, and of course our brisket burrito, which is a great option for everyone, since you can have it by itself with grilled pico de gallo, with green chile, or with cilantro and onion!”

Fenn’s gets plenty of orders for its hefty bacon, egg and cheese burritos, as well as chorizo, egg and cheese. And as all burrito aficionados know, it’s not all about the main course; the salsa needs to shine as well.

“People love our salsas,” said Francisca Leon, deli manager at Fenn’s. “We make all our own salsas. I’ve been here 10 years, and the recipes haven’t changed.”

It takes a certain kind of person to make it in the oil and gas industry, someone willing to work hard for an honest day’s pay, through long shifts, scorching summer heat, and physically demanding tasks. Many workers reside in Artesia and the surrounding area, but others travel long distances for work, leaving family and the creature comforts behind to make their living.

The restaurant owners and staff willing to climb out of bed even before the workers do to ensure they have a hot, filling breakfast to send them off recognize that level of dedication — and are themselves examples of it.

“We are not a chain restaurant, and our business depends on our day-to-day customers,” said Martinez. “Our food is made fresh every day, and we want our customers to feel valued, welcome and appreciated. It is because of them we can succeed as a business. Special thank-you to all our employees that go above and beyond every day to give the best service.”

“Some people don’t have the time to cook themselves breakfast,” said Leon. “Some people are just on the go, so it’s pretty nice to have people that are here and ready to serve the people that have to get up and go to work so early.”

“We know how it is, especially with the oilfield,” said Miranda. “They come from very far away sometimes, and they don’t have families here — they don’t have homecooked meals. So for us, it gives us a little peace knowing that they get something close to home, something fresh.”

“We are willing to go above and beyond to serve these workers because we too come from families and homes that have someone working out in the oilfields or at the refinery,” Guillermo said. “Our clients and the workers of Artesia, or even those passing through, have become like family to us, and we’d do anything for family, especially when they have been as supportive as the workers of the oil and gas industry.

“We know that the early mornings can become a hassle, and workers shouldn’t have to worry about what is going to fuel their bodies for the long day ahead, especially when we’re sure Super Taco will have exactly what they are needing — and, if not, that our chef will be willing to accommodate!”